Taipei｜Two Michelin stars｜Logy– Is not just eating, but eating a deconstruction and reorganization of Asian culture

Homemade soy milk Tofu/Tomato Yogurt Cold Soup/Pine Nuts

The first appetizer is "homemade soy milk tofu/tomato yogurt cold soup/pine nuts"

The use of tofu familiar to Asians as a starting point is not traditional tofu, but the use of soy milk to reshape.

The chef solidifies the soy milk into a texture similar to cheese and mousse, showing a salty and fresh flavor tone. It is topped with a transparent sauce made of clarified tomato water and yogurt whey, which brings bright acidity as a balance, and the nutty aroma of pine nuts cleverly masks the tofu itself.The smell of bean curd is unstoppable.

This dish uses a minimalist approach to deal with the shortcomings of the ingredients, but instead highlights the advantages. It is a very clever opening technique, but it can clearly show the core concept of Logy's work.

 Golden Tower of Mullet Roe

Then there is the "Golden Tower of mullet Roe", inspired by the food context developed by early overseas Chinese immigrants to Malaysia and Singapore. The chef uses buckwheat to make the tower shell. The filling is Hokkaido raw food grade scallops, special flavor mayonnaise and creamy pumpkin puree. The top layer is covered with freshly shaved mullet roe.

The overall presentation is quite rich, but the salty and umami taste of mullet roe is too strong, which to some extent masks the original delicate sweetness and taste of scallops. It is a pity that this dish is a pity-if you can control the amount of mullet roe more accurately, you may be able to make the level of the two ingredients.More distinct.

Kombu/caviar/mustard

The third course "Kombu/caviar/mustard" is a dessert that impressed me throughout the meal. Kelilu is paired with caviar. The mineral feeling of caviar and the saltiness of sea salt unexpectedly set off Kelilu's original caramel and vanilla sweetness to be more three-dimensional, no longer just sweet and greasy.

The moment the caviar particles burst into pulp in the mouth, it forms a rich taste level with the hard and crisp shell of Kelilu and the Q bomb inside. Coupled with the spicy finish of mustard, it is the first time I have experienced the combination of caviar and mustard. It is novel and bold, and it is the most creative highlight of this menu.One of them.

Oysters/sweet beans/Ricotta cheese

The cold cut part is "oysters/sweet beans/Ricotta cheese", using Hokkaido thick shore oysters with spring salad, the green part is made of fresh sweet beans, and paired with sweet bean paste and two different flavors of smoothies, the center is decorated with homemade Ricotta cheese, and the other side is fresh mint.

It is recommended to mix all the elements well and eat them. It will bring out a hazelnut-like aroma, but frankly speaking, the composition of this dish is slightly complicated, and the overall flavor is not clear enough. It is one of the more difficult to interpret in this menu.

CHUPADERO Lanzarote Listán Blanco

The matching liquor is CHUPADERO Lanzarote Listán Blanco from Lanzarote, Canary Islands, Spain. This wine is made from Listán Blanco grapes grown on local volcanic rock soil and aged in 600 liters of old sherry barrels, showing a neurotic and tight ore feeling. It is a volcanic wine.A classic representative, echoing the aforementioned dishes with a maritime atmosphere.

Abalone/morel/white fungus

The stock made from southern and northern apricots is the base, with a rich aroma of almonds, and the morels contain a second layer of soup made from horse mackerel, and finally topped with golden spice oil with saffron flavor.

The layering of this hot soup is extremely rich. The sweetness of almonds, the umami flavor of seafood stock and the aroma of saffron are intertwined. It is one of my personal favorites in the whole meal. It is matched with the ore of Grüner Veltliner and the citrus flavor, forming a quite harmonious echo.

Ried Dechant 1ÖTW Grüner Veltliner

The next wine to appear is Ried Dechant 1ÖTW Grüner Veltliner from Jurtschitsch Winery in the Kamptal region of Austria. This is a premium garden wine from a single plot facing southeast. The aroma is mature, with grapefruit, apricot and nut aromas, as well as the spicy characteristics of beetroot and white pepper.

Mochi/black truffle/Mackerel

Mochi is made of white jade powder, which contains diced bamboo shoots to add texture. It is covered with straw-smoked mackerel and Australian black truffles. The sauce is a French white wine sauce made of Kyoto white miso and mozzarella cheese, which brings out a creamy feeling.

However, the overall combination of this dish seems to me to be somewhat conflicted-mackerel, black truffle and mochi have their own strong flavor and taste, but they have failed to find a clear intersection point. It is one of the more unbalanced in this menu.

E. J. McDougall

The next Chardonnay is from E. of Margaret River, Western Australia. J. McDougall, is a high-end model of the winery. It has a full style, with tropical fruit aromas of pineapple and passion fruit, and has the finish of spices and creamy vanilla. The ore is obvious, and the whole is fresh and deep.

Eel/blue and white pepper/chocolate

This is Logy's classic dish. It uses Taiwanese Yunlin white eel to bake and fry in tempura technique. It is topped with a hot soup similar to mushroom stock. The blue and white peppers bring a slight acidity and numbness, and the bottom is covered with 100% Taiwanese chocolate.

The recommended way to eat is to taste the hot soup and the first piece of eel first, and then dip the second piece of eel in chocolate to enjoy.

The performance of the blue and white pepper soup is amazing, and the match with the tempura eel is just right. In the end, the bitter-sweet finish of the chocolate draws an unexpected but reasonable end to this dish. It is the one that surprised me the most in the whole meal.

Pinot Noir Cincuenta y Cinco

The first appearance of the red wine part is Pinot Noir Sincuenta y Sinco from Bodega Chacra, Argentina. It is produced in a single plot in southern Argentina affected by the Antarctic climate. It was planted in 1995. It has the scent of tea and fallen leaves. The style is meticulous and has the characteristics of a cool climate.

Lamb saddle/tea rice

The main meal "lamb saddle/tea rice" is Logy's signature dish, and it will appear on the menu in every round.

The tea rice is made from seven-star rice from Hokkaido, the chef's hometown, and brewed with Taiwanese oolong tea. The rice grains are amber in color, with white floral and creamy aromas. When serving, the tea leaves will be taken out and the rice will be served. Present.

The lamb is selected from the saddle of the New Zealand Highland lamb, the meat is soft and tender, and it is paired with seasonal salads and ice flowers to bring a refreshing and crisp contrast.

There are two types of sauces: one is a spicy sauce made with 18 kinds of spices and Chinese medicinal materials, which has a rich aroma but not spicy; the other is a black sour sauce made of spicy watercress, which has a clear spicy feeling.

Side dishes include Korean-style sesame leaf-wrapped sweet shredded radish, tofu-flavored edamame and homemade pickled cabbage.

It is recommended to taste the original tea and rice first, and then drizzle with spicy sauce to enjoy together.

Overall, the aroma and taste level of tea rice are indeed stunning, which is the soul of this dish; but the fishy smell of the lamb itself is slightly heavier, compared with the tea rice and sauce so carefully designed, it is a pity. If you can pay more attention to the pre-treatment of lamb, this dish will be better.The signature main course will be even more perfect.

Romain Duvernay Hermitage

Then there is Romain Duvernay Hermitage from the Hermitage region in the northern Rhone Valley of France. It is 100% Syrah brewed with dark berries and spices. It is produced by a very representative winery in the Rhone region. It has a grand structure and good aging potential. It is usually considered a classic match with red meat dishes such as lamb.

Loquat/Oriental Beauty Tea/Hops

The first dessert, "Loquat/Oriental Beauty Tea/hops", takes Nagasaki loquat as the main character. The bottom layer is matched with tea jelly made of Oriental beauty tea and IPA-flavored soup with obvious hops aroma. The herbal fragrance of thyme is dotted on the top, and the overall tea, fruity and hops aromas are intertwined.The complexity level is quite an interesting dessert attempt, which perfectly echoes Riesling's sweet acidity.

Chamomile/white asparagus/Lavender

The second dessert "Chamomile/white asparagus/lavender" is an ice cream dessert. The chamomile-flavored ice cream is paired with a cold soup of white asparagus and lavender. The aroma is rich, and it is accompanied by nectar, white begonia flowers and chrysanthemum grass. Overall, it shows the elegant finish of a floral dessert.

Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese

The dessert session is based on a team from the Moselle region of Germany, Joh. Jos. The Gracher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese from Prüm Winery, the 2023 vintage, belongs to the late noble rot grade and comes from a single plot known as the "Paradise Garden". It really tastes like it has a heavenly sweetness and acidity balance. It is the wine of the whole meal that I personally think is the most worthy of collection.

Petit Four

The final Petit Four is composed of golden jujube custard, matcha pagoda and konjac, which serves as a light and varied end to the whole meal.