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Food8 points or moreTainanTaiwandessert

台南|盤式甜點|楿 Katsura Dessert(五訪)-「舌尖上的楿」,把酸甜苦辣鹹寫成一套甜點敘事

by Chou Chou 2026-06-23
written by Chou Chou 2026-06-23
4

Content table of contents

  • 楿 Katsura Dessert|第七季|舌尖上的楿
  • 舌尖上的楿甜點菜單
    • 卡門貝爾乳酪|豆豉|水梨
    • 蓮子|桂圓|枸杞
    • 馬鈴薯|甜椒|白味噌
    • 草莓|玫瑰|羅旺子
    • 甜珠草|仙草|苦參根
    • 草莓開心果馬卡龍
  • Tea Pairing
  • Overall dining experience and personal feelings
  • Overall rating and cost
  • Restaurant information

回到台南的第一件事,我毫不猶豫先去吃楿 Katsura 的新一季。這季的主題叫 「舌尖上的楿」,每一道圍繞五味:酸、甜、苦、辣、鹹。聽起來像是教科書上的分類,但楿最厲害的地方在於,它不把五味當標籤,而是把五味當成「敘事的重心」,讓甜點不再只是甜,更有了更像料理的起承轉合。

#Tainan Dessert #楿Katsura #Plate dessert #Creative dessert #Taiwan Dessert #Dessert Art #Tainan Cuisine #High CP value food #Southern dessert #Dessert control #candy store Theme #Honest food review #ChoosyChou Food Review #Dessert feast #Tainan must eat #Dessert design

(2026年2月用餐)

楿 Katsura Dessert|第七季|舌尖上的楿

「舌尖上的楿」,把酸甜苦辣鹹寫成一套甜點敘事

舌尖上的楿Dessert menu

卡門貝爾乳酪|豆豉|水梨

第一道從「鹹」出發。底部是以卡門貝爾融入的烤布蕾,入口先是一抹很克制的鹹感,像是把乳酪的乳脂厚度壓進蛋香裡;驚喜藏在布蕾裡,用東方美人茶長時間浸泡過的無花果乾,原本我期待它會在甜度與香氣上跳出來,但實際吃起來反而覺得它和布蕾的奶脂有些「不同步」,那種應該發生的驚喜沒有完全落地。

反倒是上層的水梨丁表現得更聰明,水梨用焦糖、醬油與金桔煮過,甜裡帶一點鹹與柑橘的酸香,讓口感更立體;旁邊的無花果慕斯像是柔軟的緩衝墊,把味道拉得更圓。

最關鍵的是豆豉,豆豉、醬油與香料熬成凝膠,再用豆豉爆香薑蒜拌入麵糊烤成薄片,讓豆豉不是「鹹味來源」,而是變成一種帶著發酵深度的香氣語彙。

整體是鹹甜交錯、層次豐富,第一盤就漂亮到讓人心情直接被打開,雖然無花果乾那段我覺得稍微卡住,但其餘部分幾乎都很精彩。

蓮子|桂圓|枸杞

第二道把「甜」寫得很東方。主體是一條軟可麗餅,內餡夾核桃與蓮蓉,甜度溫柔、不走爆甜;上方是枸杞與香料做的冰淇淋,濃郁度高,帶出一點像藥膳甜湯那種溫熱記憶。

旁邊搭配冬季才有的宜蘭金棗,蜜漬四天後果皮與果肉的酸香都更集中,再加桂圓與黑糖糰子,把甜味往「圓潤」推。底部還有薑餅乾碎片與香緹,讓香氣更暖。

但這道對我來說比較可惜的是…每個元素都很用心,可是入口時比較像「各自表演」,融合感沒有上一道那麼一體成形;你能感受到它的設計與細節,但吃的當下少了一個把所有味道收束成一句話的核心。

馬鈴薯|甜椒|白味噌

第三道是我這次最愛的段落之一,以「辣」為主題。楿很狡猾(稱讚意味),它沒有用辣椒直接做「辣」,而是用香料、味噌與烤甜椒的辛香去做出「帶刺激感的厚度」。

旁邊的小吐司以馬鈴薯為主軸,質地更扎實、帶著馬鈴薯特有的 Q 彈回彈感,照店家建議用手撕一小塊入口,口感很有趣;搭配的奶油是烤甜椒+味噌+辛香料調成,像是鹹甜之間帶微辣的「夾饃奶油」感,濃但不膩。

再沾一點烤黃甜椒+蜂蜜做的凝膠,甜味拉起來後,辣感反而更乾淨、層次更清楚。

這道很棒的地方在於它像一個「節拍器」,讓整份套餐不會一直在甜點語境裡打轉,口腔也因此被重新校準,越吃越停不下來。

草莓|玫瑰|羅旺子

第四道回到「酸」的杯式甜點。

這杯我覺得完成度非常高。底部用新鮮紫蘇葉與草莓醃漬櫛瓜,讓酸的來源不是只有水果,還有紫蘇的草本清香;中間半透明的果凍用草莓澄清液與玫瑰做成,酸感乾淨、花香細緻。

另一個酸的主角是羅旺子(酸籽),被做成慕斯與泡泡,泡泡還帶玫瑰香氣;上面再配玫瑰小餅乾。

這杯最迷人的是「融合感」,酸度明確卻不刺激,果凍的 Q、櫛瓜的脆、泡泡的輕盈彼此咬合得很好,玫瑰香氣也不會落入香水感,而是很優雅地繞在尾韻。

這是一杯你會覺得「酸也可以很溫柔」的作品。

甜珠草|仙草|苦參根

最後一道以「苦」收尾。苦其實是甜點最難做的味道,因為一不小心就會變成「不好吃」;楿的做法很聰明,它不是把苦做尖,而是把苦做成層次。底部是熬六小時的仙草汁,並加入凍檸烏龍茶的元素,凝固成像仙草凍的質地;中間是一塊巧克力布朗尼,提供可可的厚度與咬感。

上方冰淇淋用苦參根(苦茶材料)搭青草茶、香料、奶油與牛奶製作,苦感清楚但不生硬;旁邊葉冠造型餅乾用甜珠草(愛草)做出草木香,像是把「苦」的輪廓畫得更完整。

店家建議用「冷熱交替」方式吃,冰淇淋搭仙草凍一起入口,溫度差讓香氣更立體,苦、甘、草本與可可完全貼合主題,收尾驚艷又漂亮,這道真的是完美 Ending,讓人吃完會忍不住在心裡鼓掌。

草莓開心果馬卡龍

這次還意外加點到過年期間限定的草莓開心果馬卡龍。我只是抱著期待問問,老闆完全猜中我們想吃這個,而且剛好剩兩顆就給我們了,那種「被看穿的幸福」很可愛🥰

Tea Pairing

茶搭配的部分我同樣很喜歡,是被認真設計過的 pairing。

第一杯配蓮子桂圓枸杞那道,是三峽老茶(發酵約七成的陳茶),加荔枝龍眼蜜與荔枝木做成茶飲,再打入二氧化碳做成氣泡茶;入口清爽、香氣乾淨,剛好把那道較厚的甜味整理得更明亮。

第二杯則用台中巨峰葡萄做厭氧發酵,抽真空後加蜂蜜與糖發酵到「有發酵味但不到酒精」的狀態,再連皮帶肉壓碎榨汁,所以喝得到單寧感;最後加入泰美烏龍與桂花提香,搭配草莓玫瑰羅旺子那杯,酸香、花香與單寧互相支撐,意外地很有「像在喝無酒精自然酒」的質感。

Overall dining experience and personal feelings

整體來說,我覺得「五味」這個主題其實很難,因為它容易流於概念或標語,但楿把它做得扎實、好吃,份量也剛剛好,不會有盤式甜點常見的疲乏感。更重要的是,茶搭配不只提升味覺,也把整套體驗的完成度再拉高一階。以這個價位來說,真的佛心到讓人有點感動,也真心希望這樣用心、敢做、又做得好的甜點店,能一直經營下去,生意越來越興隆。

Second visit

https://choosychou.com/katsura_tainan_dessert/

Third visits

https://choosychou.com/katsura_tainan_dessert_plate_dining_flower_theme/

四訪

https://choosychou.com/tainan_dessert_katsura_candy_store_theme/

Overall rating and cost

  • 📍 Rating: 10/10
    📌Price: NTD $790/person
    📌Tea Pairing:$140/2 cup
    🏠 @xiang_dinning

Restaurant information

  • address:  3F., No. 260, Sec. 2, Minzu Road, West Central District, Tainan City 700
  • Reservation:https://inline.app/booking/-NEtNQZKrBhDKgQRt11e:inline-live-1/-N_XVJqxvJ-8m_V88HLV?language=zh-tw

Do you want to support a dessert shop for local professionals? Next time you come to Tainan, don't just eat beef soup, give "Katsura" a chance, it will definitely amaze you!

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Chou Chou

I am Chou Chou, a "discerning" lifestyle who loves to explore the world's food and wine. He holds SSI Navigator and WSET Level 1 licenses in Japan, and has traveled to the United States, Japan, Iceland, the United Kingdom, Russia, Jordan and other places. From street food to boutique restaurants, I want to share with you my most carefully selected taste experiences. Welcome to the world of Choosy Chou, be picky and live a more exciting life!

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  • 台南|盤式甜點|楿 Katsura Dessert(五訪)-「舌尖上的楿」,把酸甜苦辣鹹寫成一套甜點敘事
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Choosy Chou

Hi, this is Chou Chou. Because I have always been "picky" about good things, I founded Choosy Chou to record and share the food, flavors and travel experiences that are truly worthy of being remembered. I am a food and flavor explorer, from street food to Michelin restaurants, from hidden bars to boutique cafes, I like to use my professional senses to taste, understand and compare, rather than just taking pictures and checking in. I have WSET Wine Level 2, WSET Sake Level 1, SSI Sake Navigator, and Coffee CSP Sensory Skill Foundation licenses. I hope to use a more systematic way to show you the flavor value behind a glass of wine and a dish. I have traveled to many countries such as the United States, Japan, South Korea, Iceland, and the United Kingdom. I believe that the most authentic language in the world is hidden on the table and in the cup. Choosy is not picky, but an insistence on the quality of life. You are welcome to join me in savoring the world with higher standards.

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