{"id":3641,"date":"2026-04-15T09:15:39","date_gmt":"2026-04-15T09:15:39","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/choosychou.com\/?p=3641"},"modified":"2026-07-12T02:44:12","modified_gmt":"2026-07-12T02:44:12","slug":"barcelona_michelin_two_star_enigma","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/choosychou.com\/en\/barcelona_michelin_two_star_enigma\/","title":{"rendered":"Barcelona\uff5cEnigma Full Review\uff5cTwo-Michelin-starred molecular cuisine and Wine Pairing experience, very creative, but is it really worth it?"},"content":{"rendered":"

Barcelona\uff5cTwo-Michelin-starred Enigma: The most anticipated meal, but in the end it is an experience where high expectations and high gaps coexist.<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Throughout the whole journey to Barcelona, the meal I am most looking forward to is not any three-star veteran, but this Enigma that is open on the only day of the week. This is the most personal cooking plan of Albert Adri\u00e0, the younger brother of El Bulli's legendary chef Ferran Adri\u00e0-he has just been promoted from one Michelin star to two stars and is ranked 34th in the world. With these two numbers alone, the expectation value has already reached the ceiling.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

As soon as you walked into the door, a dark corridor greeted you. The chefs lined up to greet you, and then stepped into the high main hall, with white clouds hanging in the air, as if straying into a contemporary art installation. Before the official start, the service staff even asked: Do you want to explain as soon as you serve the food, or let you guess for yourself first and then reveal it afterwards? This sense of opening ceremony is already part of the experience in itself. At first, we chose the \"guess by ourselves\" route, but we quickly admitted that we had failed and changed our mouths to ask the waiter to explain it from the beginning.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

And Enigma's tasting menu is indeed not the linear narrative of appetizers, main courses, and desserts of traditional fine dining. It follows Albert Adri\u00e0's typical flavor-themed architecture: Citrus, Umami, Salt, Mozzarella, Vegetables, Surf & Turf, Hare, Duck, Fruits, Morphings. In other words, this menu is not a single dish, but a complete set of taste progressions that have been designed.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

#EnigmaBarcelona<\/a> #BarcelonaFineDining<\/a> #AlbertAdria<\/a>#MichelinBarcelona<\/a> #ChoosyChou<\/a><\/h6>\n\n\n\n

(Dining in February 2026)<\/p>\n\n\n\n\n\n\n\n

Enigma Restaurant introduction and Dining experience<\/mark><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

CITRUS-Citrus acid opening<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The opening three dishes of the whole set all revolve around citrus, the purpose is to \"awaken\" and open the taste with high acidity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Frozen sake and grapefruit ingots<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The outer layer is sake marshmallow, and the top is stacked with grapefruit juice ice hockey. You can get two temperatures and textures at the same time with one bite. The concept is interesting and the execution is accurate, but to be honest, the flavor of sake is almost completely overshadowed by the sourness of grapefruit, and it is a pity that the outline of the sake cannot be drunk. It is competent as an opening warm-up.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n<\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Valencia Orange Tower<\/mark><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The base of tartine is made from Valencia orange, covered with Campari and absinthe jelly, and then covered with raspberry crisp grains and crushed ginger sugar. The overall bitter-sweet intertwining is quite balanced, but the sense of existence of pistachios is also weak. Even if the ingredients are known in advance, it is difficult to identify when eating.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Iranian pistachio sponge cake + orange<\/mark><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

A light soft cake with sour cream, thin slices of orange peel and crushed pistachios on top. The texture is soft and the acidity is refreshing. As the end of the citrus segment, it is clean and neat, but it is just an ordinary small cake with no memorable highlights. The three citrus dots are added up to complete the task of \"opening the taste\", but as individual dishes, they are only well-behaved.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

UMAMI-Umami Stacking<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

From the high acidity of citrus to the umami flavor, this is the first time I feel that the menu is \"telling a story.\"<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Parmesan Cheese Air Muffin<\/mark><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The waiter specifically reminded \"take it by hand and eat it in one bite.\" The air muffin, which was as thin as a cicada's wing, almost disappeared in the mouth as soon as it was bitten down. A piece of concentrated Parmesan cheese lay horizontally on it, and the umami flavor was slowly released on the tongue. The memory point of this dish lies in the contrast-light in vision and heavy in taste. It is the most enjoyable bite of the entire front section.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Smoked eel frozen pie<\/mark><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The chef smoked the eel and disassembled it, then used nori jelly to bond with the eel jelly layer by layer to reshape it into the shape of an eel, and finally drizzled it with olive oil and sea salt. There is no doubt about the technical content, and the smoky aroma is indeed charming-but the biggest question after eating is: What is the purpose of this dish? Disassembled and reorganized, it was still the taste of eel in the end, and the texture did not get better as a result. It would make sense to ask questions as a philosophy, but as a dish, it did not convince me that this process is necessary. Maybe this is some kind of essence of molecular cuisine, but I haven't figured it out yet.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Wine Pairing: A wine journey that is more expensive and convincing than the menu<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

\u20ac350 vs \u20ac160, the same dish, two parallel universes-Jura rice wine, Vega Sicilia, homemade Palomino, what exactly does Enigma's wine selection philosophy say?<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

Enigma's tasting menu is priced at \u20ac260, but it offers two wine pairing options: a standard version of \u20ac160 and an advanced version of \u20ac350-the latter is more expensive than the package itself. Thank you to the parents who were traveling this time. One of them proudly asked me to order the option of \u20ac350, while my father chose \u20ac160. This unexpectedly turned the meal into a two-track parallel tasting class: the same dish, two different wines, two very different interpretations.angle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The whole wine pairing is divided into 8 paragraphs, plus a special cocktail as the end. The sommelier's explanation is very professional. Although the accent is still heavy, it is slightly better than the waiter who introduced the dishes. The most direct feeling is\uff1aThe level of wine comprehensively surpasses the surprises brought by the dishes<\/strong>\u2014\u2014There are a few wines that make me think they are worth leaving the restaurant and finding a quiet evening to drink alone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

SALT-Salty and fresh burst section<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Entering the core of salty food, this section is the section with the most intensive technical display and the strongest dramatic tension throughout the night.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Anchovy salted foie gras (freshly prepared at the table)<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The chef walked to the table with a glass box. The bottom of the box was covered with anchovy salt. After the three pieces of foie gras were put in, they were completely covered with salt. The timing was seven minutes and thirty seconds-during this period, you continue to eat and watch the dish \"in progress.\" When the time is up, the chef takes out the foie gras, brushes off the excess salt and serves it. The texture of foie gras melts in the mouth, is as delicate as silk, and the taste is impeccable. The only regret is that the flavor of anchovy salt did not penetrate as deeply as expected, and it tastes more like pure original foie gras. As a \"table theater\", this is one of the most successful interactive experiences of the night.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Spanish sweet shrimp Quisquilla (decomposed in three parts)<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

There is no doubt that it is the highest peak of the night. A Spanish deep-sea sweet shrimp was completely disassembled into three parts and processed separately: the shrimp head was crispy and fried until golden, the shrimp body was filled with concentrated shrimp paste and lightly mixed with olive oil, and the shrimp tail was eaten with blue shrimp eggs. The focus is not on elastic teeth, but \"smoothness + pure sweetness\"-every part tastes like the essence of the ocean, there is no fishy smell, only the cleanest taste of the shrimp itself. This is the best interpretation of minimalist molecular cuisine: technology serves ingredients, not overrides them.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Round 1-Oxidation System Opening: Jura \u00d7 Andaluc\u00eda<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Pairing dishes: Anchovy salted foie gras\u30fbSpanish sweet shrimp<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Enigma did not start with a safe liquor, but directly brought out two wines that share the same brewing language-oxidation and yeast control. One is from Jura, France, and the other is from southern Spain, but the styles surprisingly echo each other.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac350 \uff5cVin Jaune 2017 “En Spois” \uff5cB\u00e9n\u00e9dicte & St\u00e9phane Tissot<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddeb\ud83c\uddf7 Arbois, Jura<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cWalnut, hazelnut, curry spice, dried apple, oxidized yeast<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cHighly sour, completely dry, extremely mineral and salty, obviously umami<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Process\uff5c Sous Voile yeast membrane matures for about six years, preventing complete oxidation while imparting flavor transformation<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"Liquid version of the stock\"-This rice wine is a umami dish in itself, which resonates precisely with the marine minerals of foie gras and sweet shrimp.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac160\uff5cTA\/MIRA Miraflores Alta \uff5cSuertes del Marqu\u00e9s System<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Andaluc\u00eda (near Jerez)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cSea breeze, saltiness, almonds, white flowers, slightly oxidized scent<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cCompletely dry, highly salty, light but structured, with a sense of marine minerals<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Process\uff5cMatured in barrels that once contained Sherry, non-reinforced, non-Solera system<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\"The un-enhanced version of the soul of Sherry\"-takes on Sherry's salty vocabulary in a lighter form, and the ocean sweetness of sweet shrimp is extremely in tune.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The two wines seem to come from very different regions, but they share the same brewing language.\uff1a<\/em>Oxidation control and yeast flavor<\/strong>\u3002 Enigma used this set of opening remarks to announce: this is not a \"safe\" wine pairing, but a philosophy class on wine selection with a point of view.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Eggplant jelly + Sobrasada + sea urchin<\/mark><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Visually, it has been predicted that this is a dish about sea urchins. At the bottom is a jelly made of roasted eggplant water, topped with the fat sauce of Mayoka sobrasada sausage, then stacked with a whole piece of fresh sea urchin, and finally garnished with fried pork belly and soy sauce. When the waiter introduced it, it sounded rich in layers, but in the actual entrance, the strong salty freshness of the sea urchin almost ruled the audience, the fineness of the eggplant jelly completely disappeared, and the fat of sobrasada was difficult to identify. The combination of ingredients should be interesting on paper, but in the end there is only \"one sea urchin dish\" left in the taste. This is another attempt that is more confusing than surprising.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

MOZZARELLA-CUSHIONING texture<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Mozzarella Souffl\u00e9 (single Ingredient)<\/mark><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This is the most impressive piece of technology in the entire menu: the chef uses only mozzarella cheese moisture to steam a complete souffl\u00e9 without flour, eggs, or any support structure. It was still trembling slightly when it was served to the table, and the mouth was as light as a cloud, with a faint creamy sweetness. As the \"taste buffer\" between the salty food segment and the vegetable segment, this dish is completely in place, and the design logic is clear-but when it comes to \"delicious\", its flavor is essentially a touch of cheese, and the surprise of technology is greater than the satisfaction of taste.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

VEGETABLES-Vegetables as the protagonist<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

This section is the longest and most revealing section of the chef's philosophy in the entire menu-vegetables are not supporting roles, but the main body.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Sweet potato starch noodles + pistachio green sauce + Kombu seaweed<\/mark><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Handmade noodles are made from sweet potato starch, mixed with pistachio green sauce, coated with two kinds of seaweed, Kombu and Qinghai moss, and finally ground with Parmesan cheese. Visually, it is a plate of fresh green Italian noodles with elastic and tough taste, but the overall is lighter. There is not much spark between the umami flavor of seaweed and the richness of cheese, and it lacks the driving force that makes people want to take one more bite.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Round 2-Chardonnay Quartet: Visual Sense of Tasting Class<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Matching dishes: eggplant, frozen sea urchin\u30fb Mozzarella, Souffl\u00e9\u30fb sweet potato noodles<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The sommelier served four bottles of Chardonnay at the same time-two with \u20ac350 and two with \u20ac160-jokingly said it was a \"game.\" With four bottles juxtaposed on the table, it really looks like a formal drinking class.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac160\u2014The first model\uff5cMarsannay“Les Champs Perdrix”2022\uff5cJ\u00e9r\u00f4me Galeyrand<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddeb\ud83c\uddf7 Marsannay, Burgundy<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cLemon peel, green apple, white flower<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cMedium and high acid, light to medium body, clean and neat mineral feeling<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The direct style of the northern end of Burgundy is less modified and more refreshing than C\u00f4te de Beaune, and has a strong ability to cut fat with acidity.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac160\u2014The second model\uff5cBourgonne“Les Riaux”\uff5cDomaine Renaud Boyer<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddeb\ud83c\uddf7 Burgundy<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cSlight oxidation, yeast, lactic acid fermentation flavor<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\/Loose texture, natural style, and outstanding personality<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This cup \"does not exist for good taste\", but to show another possibility of Chardonnay-the creamy feeling and oxidizing contour under the vocabulary of naturalism.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac350\u2014The first model\uff5cPhelan Farm Chardonnay 2023\uff5cPhelan Farm<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddfa\ud83c\uddf8 California Central Coast<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cCitrus, white peach, micro herbs<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cMedium acidity, open fruity flavor, round structure<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The only New World wine in the entire group, but deliberately lowered the fruit ripeness and oak use, providing a clear contrast point between the Burgundy style.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac350\u2014Second model\uff5cChablis Premier Cru“La Forest”2019\uff5cDomaine Vincent Dauvissat<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddeb\ud83c\uddf7 Chablis, Burgundy<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cLemon, flint, wet stone<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cHigh acid, sharp lines, strong mineral feeling<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Returning to the most classic Chablis style, the multiple interpretations of the entire set of Chardonnay are wrapped up with a flint mineral sense. It is the personal favorite of the four models.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Why is Chardonnay?<\/strong>Because these three dishes have both fat (cheese Souffl\u00e9), seafood umami (sea urchin) and starch base (pasta). Chardonnay's acidity is fat-cutting, the wine is creamy, and the mineral feeling echoes seafood-just the right combination of the three. The juxtaposed design of the four bottles makes people directly feel the breadth of \"the same variety and four languages\".<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Broad beans + Tucup\u00ed South American Fermentation Liquid + scallop<\/mark><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The protagonist is tender broad beans, paired with a tucup\u00ed sauce made of tapioca, pumpkin and fermented chili, topped with fried chickpeas and razor clam. The idea of the whole dish spans South America and the Mediterranean Sea. The combination of ingredients makes sense logically, but the actual taste level is vague, and there is no clear main axis for people to remember. After the meal, this dish has almost disappeared from memory.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Maresme mung bean pods Wrapped Sweet beans<\/mark><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The ingredients come from the El Maresme region, a 30-minute drive north of Barcelona, emphasizing a high degree of local and seasonal. After the whole bunch of pods are roasted on hot charcoal, they are finished with a sauce made of beans of the same variety, and decorated with acerera leaves with acetic acid. The burnt aroma brought by charcoal grilling is the only memory point of this dish, but it is essentially \"baked beans with soy sauce\". The ingredients are indeed fresh, but the concept is a bit single.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Round 3-Time vs. Terroir: Rioja \u00d7 Tenerife<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Matching dishes: Broad beans + TUCUP\u00cd + Knife shell\u30fbMung Bean pod Sweet beans<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac350 \uff5cVi\u00f1a Tondonia Reserva 2010\uff5cR. L\u00f3pez de Heredia Vi\u00f1a Tondonia<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddea\ud83c\uddf8 Rioja<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cDried apple, orange peel, beeswax, nuts, caramel<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cMedium and high acid, medium body, stable structure, obvious oxidation level<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Craftsmanship \uff5cThe traditional craftsmanship of Rioja matured in American oak barrels for a long time and went on the market after a very long bottle age. It is almost out of print.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This wine \"is not about whether it is good or bad, but that it is a living specimen of the old days of Rioja\"-today, when the world tends to fruity and ready-to-drink, this is the taste of history being bottled.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac160 \uff5cVidonia 2024\uff5cSuertes del Marqu\u00e9s<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddea\ud83c\uddf8 Valle de la Orotava, Tenerife<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cSmoke, volcanic ash, citrus peel, white flowers<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cHigh sourness, obvious mineral feeling, salty feeling, with a little creamy feeling (lees influence)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Terroir\uff5cVolcanic soil, close to the Atlantic Ocean, using traditional woven vines (cord\u00f3n trenzado)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

If Tondonia stands for \"time\", Vidonia stands for \"terroir\"-the smoky mineral feel of the volcanic soil of the Canary Islands is a taste that cannot be replicated in all production areas on the European continent.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

This round<\/em>White wine<\/strong>Pairing vegetables challenges the stereotype of \"vegetables with liquor\". The oxidation level of Tondonia corresponds to the sense of land of vegetables, and the volcanic mineral sense of Vidonia echoes the salty freshness of the ocean of knife shells-two very different logics, both make sense.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Traditional artichoke vs. Oxidized artichoke (dual version pair<\/mark><\/strong>ratio<\/strong>\uff09<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

A comparative experiment was designed for this dish: on the left is the traditional charcoal-roasted artichokes after boiling in water, and on the right is the Korean Ocoo pressure cooker version that oxidizes for four hours to scorch black. The two are served at the same time. It is recommended to eat traditional first and then oxidize. The traditional version has a bitter fragrance, while the oxidized version is deep, intertwined with sweetness and bitterness, and has a softer texture, similar to the transformation logic of black garlic. As a cooking design of \"tasting and thinking\", this is the most interesting one in the vegetable section-the difference between the two is real and perceptible, and it really makes people think about the possibility of \"oxidation\" as a culinary language.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Morel + oxtail sauce + Thai tender coconut fruit<\/mark><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This is the one that surprised me the most in the entire vegetable segment. The thick French ox tail stew sauce was originally a heavy background color of pure Europe, but slices of tender Thai coconut fruit were added-the chef said that the elasticity of the tender coconut fruit allowed it to be cut into thin slices similar to pasta, and the flavor was neutral, with a touch of sweetness, just to soften the fat of the ox tail sauce.sense. This combination of ingredients (French stew + Southeast Asian tropical fruits) sounds strange on paper, but the entrance is unexpectedly harmonious. Champion of memory points for the entire vegetable segment.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Round 4-Long-term maturation of Cava: Use time to redefine bubbles<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Matching dishes: Traditional & oxidized artichoke\u30fbmorel + oxtail sauce<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac160 \uff5cClos Damiana 2015\uff5cMestres<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddea\ud83c\uddf8 Cava, Pened\u00e8s<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cToast, almonds, honey, dried citrus<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cFine bubbles (has begun to soften), medium and high acidity, with obvious yeast and nut tones<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Craftsmanship\uff5cTraditional Method (Traditional Method), long-term wine puree maturation (sur lie), onlyproduced in excellent vintages<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This is no longer a \"refreshing sparkling wine\", but a sparkling wine with a sense of mature liquor. The design of conditional production gives it a sense of rarity.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac350 \uff5cMas Via 2009\uff5cMestres<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddea\ud83c\uddf8 Cava, Pened\u00e8s<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cCaramel, hazelnut, cocoa, smoky<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cThe bubbles are very fine and weakened, the structure is round, oxidized and creamy texture<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Craftsmanship\uff5cUltra-long wine puree maturation (more than 10 years), extra long bottle aging<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This wine almost crosses the boundary of the definition of \"sparkling wine\", and is closer to a mixture of oxidized white wine and sparkling wine-it is an unexpected perfect match with the rich depth of morels and the rich fatness of ox tail sauce.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Presented with two vintages of the same winery (Mestres)<\/em>Span of time dimension<\/strong>, Is the most exciting design of this round-the same region and the same brand, but because of the difference in maturation time, it has evolved into a completely different drink.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

SURF AND TURF-Fusion of Land and Sea<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Bone marrow + true and false caviar double spelling<\/mark><\/strong><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

When serving, two dishes are served first: one is Oscietra real caviar from the Caspian Sea, and the other is \"fake caviar\" made of lentils and almost the same shape. The waiter explained: Real caviar is used for smoked base sauce, and fake caviar is used to increase the taste level. The main body is the bone marrow stewed until it is as soft and tender as tofu. The fat flavor is extremely rich, and the combination of salt and umami is very solid. The concept of true and false caviar is indeed shocking, but it is a pity that when this dish is served, the sommelier happens to be explaining important wines at the same time, and the two lines go hand in hand, causing a certain degree of experience interference, and I failed to calm down and have a good taste.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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BLACK TRUFFLE AND HARE-Rabbit Meat Double Interpretation<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Royal Rabbit Meat (Hare Royal) Cake Body<\/mark><\/strong>+Truffle slices<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Rabbit meat and foie gras are pressed together into a tight cake shape, the bottom is padded with cow hoof jelly, and the end is embellished with lamb tendon juice. After cutting, the layers are distinct, and every bite is very rich-the game flavor of rabbit meat, the fat of foie gras, and the gum of beef hooves unfold on the tongue at the same time, which is a very precise reinterpretation of French classical cuisine.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Royal Rabbit meat White Radish Roll + Truffle Slices<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The second form of the same ingredients: rabbit meat jelly wrapped in thin slices of white radish, filled with rabbit meat consomm\u00e9 jelly inside, and black truffle slices are eaten together around it. This version is much lighter, the earthy flavor of truffles contrasts with the elegance of rabbit meat, and the taste is closer to the fineness of exquisite dots. The existence of two simultaneous courses makes people clearly feel the chef's intention to \"say the same thing in different languages\". It is the most comprehensive and convincing paragraph of the night's technical performance.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Round 5-Precise Interpretation of Light red Wine<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Matching dishes: Bone marrow + real and fake caviar\u30fbroyal rabbit double flavor<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac350 \uff5cChassagne-Montrachet “La Goujonne” VV 2023\uff5cDomaine Hubert Lamy<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddeb\ud83c\uddf7 Chassagne-Montrachet, Burgundy<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cRed cherry, raspberry, delicate spices, dried flowers<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cHigh acid, fine tannins, light to medium body, transparent structure<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Lamy-style Pinot Noir with a \"sense of line\" does not pursue richness, but undertakes the game flavor of rabbit meat and the fat of foie gras with a sense of transparency and precise acidity.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\ud83d\udcac This is my personal favorite red wine for the whole pairing. It is light and deep, so people can't help but want to have another glass alone.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac160 \uff5cRosso di Montalcino 2023\uff5cJ. G. Benda<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddee\ud83c\uddf9 Montalcino, Tuscany<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aromas of red berries, violets, herbs, soil, medium and high acidity in taste, tannins are more obvious than Pinot, the structure is clear but not heavy<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The choice of Rosso instead of Brunello shows the moderation of the sommelier-retaining the structural tension of Sangiovese, but not letting the tannins overwhelm the fineness of the rabbit meat.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

DUCK-Duck Quartet<\/h2>\n\n\n\n
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Duck Macarons (El Bulli Tribute)<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

With apple macarons as the shell, it is crammed with duck liver, truffles and cocoa powder sauce-this is a version that pays tribute to a classic dish of the el Bulli era. The salty and sweet conflict seemed abrupt at the first bite, but it quickly merged. The slight bitterness of cocoa ended the intensity of duck liver, and the clear acidity of apple just balanced the fat. Eating duck macarons for the first time in life is a wonderful experience.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Duck Neck Crispy Roll (Mugaritz Tribute)<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This dish is even more special-the inspiration and utensils come from the famous Basque chef Andoni Mugaritz, and the restaurant even directly uses the original plate sent by Mugaritz to dress it up. The crispy duck neck roll is filled with seasonal herbs and pickled pork, and the presentation with Mugaritz food utensils is full of ceremony. The taste is crispy and juicy, with the shadow of Chinese roast duck, which is the most relaxed and enjoyable part of the entire duck section. This cross-restaurant \"dialogue-style tribute\" design is impressive.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Duck breast with yogurt and white sauce + Jerusalem artichoke puree<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

This dish is served with neighboring bread (from the nearby Origo sourdough bakery, four minutes away). It is recommended to eat with bread dipping sauce. The duck breast is presented in two colors, clear soup, black sauce and creamy white sauce, and the jerusalem artichoke puree is delicate, which is a more traditional cooking technique as a whole. The taste is well-behaved, and it is dull compared with the first two surprises. The bread itself is excellent-the outer skin is crispy and the inside is firm and moist. It is the only thing that makes me feel \"so full\" all night.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Round 6\u2014Vega Sicilia: The apex of power in the whole game<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Matching dishes: Duck Macarons\u30fbDuck Neck Crispy rolls\u30fbDuck breast with white sauce<\/p>\n\n\n\n

After experiencing the entire flavor layout from Jura, Burgundy to Canary Islands, Enigma handed over the final focus to the \"definer\" of Spanish wine.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac350 \uff5c\u00danico 2016\uff5cVega Sicilia<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddea\ud83c\uddf8 Ribera del Duero<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cBlackberry, cedar, tobacco, leather, spices<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cThe tannins are extremely delicate, the structure is tight but not heavy, and the aftertaste is extremely long<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Craftsmanship \uff5c Matured in oak barrels for a very long time (mixed with French + American oak), strictly selected vintages, not brewed for the market<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u00danico's greatness does not come from power, but from control-\"the power of convergence\". This is the most awe-inspiring cup of pairing in the whole game, and the aftertaste will still linger after you leave the restaurant.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac160 \uff5cValbuena 5\u00ba 2021\uff5cVega Sicilia<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\ud83c\uddea\ud83c\uddf8 Ribera del Duero<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma\uff5cRed and black fruit, spices, vanilla, slightly sweet<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Taste\uff5cThe tannins are more obvious, the structure is clear, and the flavor is more open and direct<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Craftsmanship\uff5cMatured in about five years (hence the name), mainly French oak, the main body of Tempranillo<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Vega Sicilia's \"second language\"-younger and easier to read than \u00danico, but with the same philosophical blood flowing in his bones.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

The same winery, two levels-\u20ac350 is for \"\u00danico's time\" and \u20ac160 is for \"Valbuena's Architecture\". Both are Vega Sicilia, but they have different answers to the same question.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Foie gras pudding + duck caramel<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Foie gras pudding is covered with caramel crispy shells, and the logic similar to the French cr\u00e8me br\u00fbl\u00e9e extends to the context of salty food. Foie gras itself is rich, and caramel brings a contrast between sweetness and bitterness. As the end of the entire duck segment, it is a reasonable but not surprising end.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Round 7\u2014The Finale of Noble Rot Wine: Known vs. unknown<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Matching dishes: Foie gras pudding + duck caramel<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac160 \uff5cCh\u00e2teau de Fargues 1998\uff5cCh\u00e2teau de Fargues<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Sauternes (same family as Yquem)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Aroma honey, dried apricots, orange peel, saffron, caramel taste, high sweetness, high acidity (key balance), viscous structure but not greasy mouth background Botrytis cinerea noble rot bacteria, high sugar concentration, long-term bottle aging<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Produced by the same family as Ch\u00e2teau d’ Yquem, Sauternes' classic skeleton has shown amazing complexity after nearly 30 years of bottle aging. The high acidity balances the sweetness, and the caramelized duck liver pudding is like glue.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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\u20ac350\uff5cEnigma exclusive Palomino (about 2002) \uff5cMade by the Albert Adri\u00e0 team<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Andaluc\u00eda \/ C\u00e1diz style<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The aroma is caramel, nutty, oxidized dried fruit, low sweetness of wood and spices (compared to Sauternes), obvious oxidation style, clean structure but deep background, made from Palomino grapes, long-term barrel aging (about 20 years), non-commercially available wine, only exists in Enigma<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This was the biggest surprise of the whole show-not the wine from the winery, but the \"exclusive work of the restaurant\" created by the Albert Adri\u00e0 team. Its existence itself is an extension of Enigma's culinary philosophy: a wine that does not aim at the market and exists only for this space.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

FRESH FRUITS-Dessert before clearing your mouth<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The purpose of the clearing transition before the formal dessert stage is to reset the taste and eliminate the fat and umami in the previous stage.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Orange jelly + pomegranate smoothie (freshly made at the table)<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The waiter made it live at the table: pomegranate syrup was diluted with French brandy and poured on orange jelly, vodka pomegranate smoothie was added, and Shanghai salt, Jamaican black pepper and orange peel were sprinkled. Sweet, sour, salty, and spicy are promoted in layers, and the effect of clearing the mouth is significant. The table-side interaction of this dish is reminiscent of the foie gras pickled section, and there is a sense of design that echoes back and forth in form.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Piqillo Chili Dessert Version<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Reinterpret the traditional Spanish piqillo chili in a dessert technique, transforming the spicy into sweet, retaining the shape and skin of the chili, but filling it with a sweet filling. The conceptual subversion is very interesting-the chili is seen at a glance, but it is sweet in the mouth. This contrast brings a momentary surprise, but after the surprise, the taste itself is not particularly outstanding.<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

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Umami Orange (dark chocolate sponge cake)<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

A sponge cake composed of dark chocolate, milk chocolate, almond wine and cappuccino, presented in the shape of an orange, with a roasted charcoal fragrance on the outer layer. The bitterness of chocolate is the last turning point in the Qingkou section. The overall taste is thick, but it is slightly heavier in the context of \"Qingkou\".<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

Final Round\u2014Dual Temperature Bartending: the sensory end of the whole experience<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

The restaurant replaces the traditional digestif with a glass of \"dual-temperature bartending\". The core of the design is: cold (granita) \u00d7 hot (foam) \u00d7 alcohol volatilization, the three unfold layer by layer in the mouth.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Cold layer-GRANITA<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Galliano Herbal Liqueur
Yuzu grapefruit juice
Six-year-old Japanese Roku gin<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It has a smoothie texture, with herbal, citrus and slightly bitter contours. The key is the grainy \u00d7 volatile aroma.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Thermal layer\u2014YUZU FOAM<\/p>\n\n\n\n

protein
Yuzu grapefruit juice<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The upper layer is covered in the form of warm foam, and the taste is soft and airy. The key is temperature \u00d7 air \u00d7 acidity release.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The first paragraph\uff5cThe refreshing and bitter sweetness of smoothies, the spicy aroma of Roku gin<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Middle section\uff5cThe structure of gin and grapefruit unfolds in the mouth<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Tail section\uff5cWarm foam brings out soft acidity, forming a \"flowing flavor curve\"<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n

This glass of bartending allows the whole experience not to end in sweetness, but in the \"change itself\"-this is the core spirit of Enigma's entire menu: not to give you an answer, but to give you an ongoing question.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n

MORPHINGS-Dessert Section<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Similar to the concept of the French Petit four, five small desserts are served at the same time, in no fixed order, and you are invited to explore by yourself.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Blood Orange Jelly \/ Kiwi Coconut Dumplings \/ Strawberry + Absinthe<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

Three small desserts with different styles: blood orange jelly is made with orange peel as a container, bright and sweet and sour; kiwi slices are wrapped in coconut jelly, accompanied by basil and mint, refreshing like a bite of jelly; the strawberry version contrasts the herbal bitterness of absinthe with the sweetness of strawberry powder. Waxy. The three dishes are considered to be above the standard when viewed separately, and the diversity added together also reflects the chef's insistence that \"desserts are not just sweet\"-sour, bitter, and herbal are all present.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Vanilla milk Bread \/ Basamik Chocolate<\/mark><\/h3>\n\n\n\n

The former is based on milk bread and smeared with vanilla cream. The texture is soft and the sweetness is mild. It is a rare warm \"homely\" moment all night; the latter penetrates the bitterness of dark chocolate with the sweetness of Basamik aged vinegar, which is the last bite of the whole menu. The two dishes are added together, so that the whole taste journey has a clear landing point-from the high acidity of citrus to the bitter-sweet finish of chocolate and vinegar, a complete circle is drawn.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Service: There are many people but \"I feel less\"<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Enigma has an astonishing number of on-site service personnel-55 employees serve 40 diners, a proportion that is rare among the world's top restaurants. This was supposed to be a symbol of the ultimate luxury service, but the actual experience had the opposite effect.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The most direct problem is the dual barrier of accent and terminology. The English of the waiters has a strong Spanish accent, the explanation speed is fast, and the names of the ingredients are mostly unfamiliar local specialties. It is difficult to capture even voice recognition, and even if the English of the diners is not strong enough, it becomes a chore to understand the design concept of each dish. In this era, \"understanding what you are eating\" should have been one of the core of the experience, but it has become the biggest obstacle.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

In addition, the coordination between the service teams is not smooth enough: the serving time overlaps with the sommelier's commentary time, the waiters do not wait for the dishes to be placed directly when the guests take pictures, and multiple waiters are acting at the table at the same time, causing minor confusion. Coupled with a large number of staff shuttling through the dining space, the entire environment is much more noisy than expected-this is a significant gap from the immersion that the \u20ac260 package should have.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Wine is more convincing to me than food<\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Frankly speaking, this wine pairing experience was the most convincing part of the night. The sommelier's wine selection has a clear philosophical axis-the wine vocabulary runs through the audience, the time dimension reappears repeatedly, and there is a clear contrasting design in each round-this sense of structure makes people feel the pleasure of \"being designed\" more than the dishes themselves.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It's a pity that the barrier to accent also exists in the description of the wine. In addition, the explanation of the dishes and the wine often occurs at the same time, and the attention is forced to be distracted, making it difficult to calm down and truly taste each one. There are several wines-especially Vin Jaune, Vega Sicilia \u00danico, and the Enigma homemade Palomino-that I think are out of the context of food pairing, but are more worthy of being drunk alone.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u20ac350 option: The design logic of the whole show is more complete, Vin Jaune, Chablis Dauvissat, Vega Sicilia \u00danico, each of which is worth the fare. If the budget permits, this is a wine selection philosophy class worth experiencing.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\u20ac160 option: The idea of choosing wine is equally clear, and each one has a reasonable matching logic with the corresponding dishes. The Ch\u00e2teau de Fargues 1998 was especially surprising, and Valbuena 5\u00ba was also satisfactory as the \"pro-people version of Vega Sicilia\".<\/p>\n\n\n\n

No matter which price you choose, Enigma's wine pairing is a sincere drinking experience. If the dishes confuse me more than the food, then these wines make me want to go back to this space again-just to finish drinking them.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Personal feelings<\/mark><\/h2>\n\n\n\n

Enigma is an unquestionably \"important restaurant\"-it is a contemporary extension of the spirit of el Bulli and Albert Adri\u00e0's profound inquiry into the possibilities of cooking. The dishes of Spanish sweet shrimp, rabbit meat, and duck macarons are works that really make me remember and are worth a flight.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

But if you are a \"good or not\" eater who takes priority over \"not interesting\", then the budget of \u20ac260 in Barcelona has more options to satisfy you. Enigma amazes you and makes you think, but it does not guarantee to make you full, nor does it guarantee to make you happy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The essence of molecular cuisine may not have been \"full\", but \"changed\". The question is: Are you willing to pay \u20ac260 to be changed?<\/p>\n\n\n\n

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Overall rating and cost<\/mark><\/h2>\n\n\n\n